Mead – also known as honey wine – is one of humanity’s oldest alcoholic beverages, crafted by fermenting honey with water. Revered by Vikings, monks, and cultures across the globe, mead boasts endless variations — from dry to sweet, still to sparkling, and infused with fruits, spices, or herbs.
The art of mead making lies in the creative blending of simple ingredients to produce a drink of remarkable complexity and character. If you want to make outstanding mead that you’ll be proud to share with friends — and perhaps even teach others to make — it all starts with a commitment to quality, patience, and proper technique.
This guide will walk you through how to make mead for real hobbyists — people who want to master the craft and create the best honey wine they’ve ever tasted.
Honey: Mead begins and ends with honey. Choose high-quality, unprocessed honey from reputable sources. Varietals like orange blossom, clover, and wildflower honey are great choices for beginners. Premium honeys like tupelo or raspberry blossom yield exceptional meads. Avoid overly processed or burned honeys, as they can mute or distort flavors.
Water: Use clean, filtered, or spring water. Avoid chlorinated tap water, as chlorine can interfere with fermentation and flavor. Good mead starts with good water — if it tastes good to drink, it's good for mead.
Yeast: Select yeast strains suited for mead or wine. Ideal options include Lalvin 71B-1122, Lalvin D-47, EC-1118, or even WLP001 from White Labs for a clean profile. Fresh, healthy yeast ensures a strong fermentation.
Yeast Nutrients: Honey is naturally low in yeast nutrients. To ferment properly, your yeast needs support. Products like Fermaid-K, Fermaid-O, and Go-Ferm help produce cleaner, healthier meads.
Serious mead making deserves proper tools. Here's what you'll need:
Primary Fermenter: A 6-gallon glass carboy or a food-grade bucket with a lid.
Airlock and Bung: To safely release CO₂ while protecting against contamination.
Secondary Fermenter: Another carboy for aging and clearing your mead.
Auto-Siphon and Tubing: For transferring mead without disturbing sediment.
Hydrometer and Test Jar: To measure sugar content and track fermentation.
Sanitizing: A no-rinse sanitizer like Star San to keep everything clean.
Thermometer: To monitor must and fermentation temperatures.
Long-Handled Spoon: Stainless steel or food-grade plastic for mixing.
Bottling Supplies: Wine bottles and corker, or beer bottles and capper.
Good equipment helps ensure consistency, safety, and quality at every stage.
Clean and sanitize every piece of equipment that will touch your must or mead. Proper sanitation prevents contamination and protects your brew.
In your fermenter, add about half the batch volume of water. Gently warm the honey if necessary for easier pouring (but do not boil). Mix thoroughly to dissolve the honey completely. Fill with additional cool water to reach your target volume, typically 5 gallons.
Take a hydrometer reading to note your original gravity (OG).
Ensure the must is below 80°F. Rehydrate your yeast with warm water and Go-Ferm if possible, then pitch into the must. Add an initial dose of yeast nutrients according to your chosen nutrient schedule.
Attach your sanitized airlock and bung.
Maintain a steady temperature between 60–70°F, depending on your yeast strain. Gently degas (stir) daily for the first few days to release CO₂. Follow a Staggered Nutrient Addition (SNA) schedule by feeding the yeast small amounts of nutrients every 24–48 hours during early fermentation.
Monitor fermentation by tracking bubbling and using your hydrometer. Cease the nutrient feedings once 1/3 of the sugar is converted to alcohol.
Example: If the starting gravity was 1.100, stop feeding at 1.066.
Once primary fermentation slows (usually after 2–4 weeks), carefully siphon the mead off the sediment into a clean secondary fermenter. This improves clarity and prevents off-flavors.
It is important to transfer as gently as possible to avoid oxidation. Pouring the mead or using a funnel will introduce large amounts of oxygen to the mead, destroying its delicate flavor. Use a auto-siphon with tubing to gentle transfer, filling the secondary fermented from the bottle to avoid splashing.
Let the mead age for 3–12 months in secondary. Mead benefits greatly from patience. The flavors will smooth and deepen over time. Check occasionally for clarity and stability.
When mead is clear and stable (specific gravity readings remain constant), bottle it using sanitized bottles and equipment. If backsweetening, stabilize with potassium metabisulfite and potassium sorbate before adding more honey.
Store your bottles in a cool, dark place, and continue aging if desired.
Ready to put your skills into action? Here's a tried-and-true traditional mead recipe using Orange Blossom honey, one of the finest varietals for smooth, floral honey wines. This base recipe creates a rich, aromatic mead perfect for aging and enjoying.
Honey: 15 pounds Orange Blossom Honey
Water: Enough to reach 5 total gallons (~3.5–4 gallons of added water after honey)
Yeast: Lalvin 71B (or D-47 for a clean, structured finish)
Go-Ferm Protect Evolution: 10 grams (for yeast rehydration)
Fermaid-O: 9 grams total (for staggered nutrient addition)
Optional: Potassium Metabisulfite (1 Campden tablet per gallon) and Potassium Sorbate (1/2 teaspoon per gallon) for stabilizing before backsweetening.
Follow the Step-by-Step Mead Making Process outlined above:
Sanitize all equipment.
Mix the Orange Blossom honey and water thoroughly.
Cool must below 80°F before pitching yeast.
Rehydrate yeast with Go-Ferm according to packet instructions, then pitch into must.
Add your first nutrient addition immediately after pitching.
Use the Staggered Nutrient Addition (SNA) method to keep your yeast healthy throughout fermentation.
At Yeast Pitch (Day 0):
Add 3 grams Fermaid-O
Stir gently to mix.
At 24 Hours:
Add 3 grams Fermaid-O
Degas gently and stir.
At 48 Hours:
Add 3 grams Fermaid-O
Degas gently and stir.
(If gravity has dropped by 30% by 48 hours, you can skip the third feeding. Otherwise, proceed.)
Notes:
Always degas the must carefully before adding nutrients to avoid foaming.
Ensure all additions are sanitized and mixed thoroughly.
If you plan to backsweeten (add honey after fermentation for more sweetness), stabilize first to prevent renewed fermentation:
Potassium Metabisulfite: 1 crushed Campden tablet per gallon (5 tablets for 5 gallons)
Potassium Sorbate: 1/2 teaspoon per gallon (2.5 teaspoons for 5 gallons)
Add these to your clear, finished mead at least 24 hours before backsweetening. Stir gently to integrate, avoiding oxygenation.
Want to start smaller? Simply divide the 5-gallon recipe by 5:
Honey: 3 pounds Orange Blossom Honey
Water: To reach 1 gallon total volume
Yeast: 1/5 packet of Lalvin 71B (or use a full packet and expect strong fermentation)
Go-Ferm: 2 grams for yeast rehydration
Fermaid-O: 1.8 grams total, split across the schedule
Stabilizers: 1 Campden tablet + 1/2 teaspoon potassium sorbate if backsweetening
Small batches are great for experimentation or first-time mead makers!
Adding fruit to this recipe transforms it into a vibrant melomel. Here's how:
Recommended Fruits and Weights (5-Gallon Batch):
Strawberries: 10 pounds (fresh or frozen)
Blueberries: 8 pounds
Raspberries: 7–8 pounds
Cherries: 10 pounds (pitted)
Peaches: 9–10 pounds (sliced)
When to Add Fruit:
Add during secondary fermentation for a fresher, more vivid fruit character.
Sanitize fruit by freezing and thawing or treating with Campden tablets.
Rack your fermented mead onto the prepared fruit in a clean secondary vessel and let it age an additional 1–2 months before bottling.
You can adjust fruit amounts to taste — more fruit means bolder flavor, but may also extend aging time.
Control Fermentation Temperature: Keep temps steady and cool to avoid harsh flavors.
Use Staggered Nutrient Additions: Feeding yeast gradually results in healthier ferments.
Minimize Oxygen After Fermentation Starts: Oxidation can ruin delicate mead flavors.
Track Everything: Keep notes on honey type, yeast, temperatures, and nutrient additions.
Taste and Adjust Carefully: You can backsweeten, add acidity, or oak your mead — but always do so gradually and thoughtfully.
Be Patient: Most meads vastly improve with aging. Young mead may taste rough but smooth out beautifully over time.
Stuck Fermentation: Check temperature, nutrients, and pH. Rouse yeast gently or pitch a strong champagne yeast if necessary.
Sulfur Smells: Caused by yeast stress. Add nutrients and aerate gently early in fermentation.
Hot/Harsh Alcohol: Usually from high fermentation temperatures. Cooler ferments produce smoother mead.
Cloudy Mead: Time and fining agents like bentonite or Sparkolloid can help.
Infection Signs: If mold or strong vinegar smell occurs, discard the batch.
Once you master traditional mead, the real fun begins:
Experiment with Styles: Try melomels (fruit meads), metheglins (spiced meads), cysers (apple meads), and more.
Join a Community: Connect with other mead makers online or locally.
Compete: Enter your meads in competitions to get feedback and hone your skills.
Blend, Oak, and Layer Flavors: Explore the full artistic range of mead crafting.
The more you brew, the more you’ll develop your own style and preferences — and the better your mead will become.
At SoCal Brewing Supply, we carry everything you need to craft outstanding mead: top-quality honey, yeast, nutrients, fermentation equipment, and more. Whether you're brewing your first gallon or your fiftieth, we’re here to support your journey.
Shop our mead-making supplies today — and raise a glass to your next great batch!
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